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This book has undergone a major review since its last edition. Added are details on top-down design and knitting, the use of circular and interchangeable needles, and other useful details used in the construction and finishing of knitted garments.
Cross referencing to related techniques is at each page bottom which is good if you've forgotten which page something was on! Pictures and sections within the book are well delineated and easy to read - important if you need to find something in a hurr This book has undergone a major review since its last edition.
Pictures and sections within the book are well delineated and easy to read - important if you need to find something in a hurry. While the title of the book could make you think this is the only book you'll need, there is a lack of explanation on alternate names for some techniques and some common stitch names, for instance with brioche knitting where the more common brk's and brp's barks and burps that are most commonly used are not seen.
The resulting explanations become a little more involved than they perhaps needed to be. This book clearly can't cover all cast ons and bind off's as seen in another popular reference either and I wouldn't expect it to unless it ran to a considerably larger book.
Thus while this book is a great addition to any knitters library, for particular techniques, supplementary references are also still the go. Apr 22, Cecilia rated it it was amazing Recommends it for: people interested in knitting.
This is an extremely helpful book for someone learning how to knit. I've been using it to give me an idea of what sorts of things I don't know but need to know this book helps with the "I don't know what I don't know". The illustrations are only sort of helpful; I mostly just use the information in the book to look up YouTube videos on the techniques.
This book is much more comprehensive than most knitting books geared to beginners, and even though I am only a beginner knitter, I would imagine This is an extremely helpful book for someone learning how to knit.
This book is much more comprehensive than most knitting books geared to beginners, and even though I am only a beginner knitter, I would imagine that even more experienced knitters would enjoy learning the advanced techniques. I do wish there were a smaller version that was more portable but still contained the same size illustrations.
It would be thicker but more travel-friendly. I've been reading this book from the library, but I intend on buying it when I return to Virginia no way am I going to take a book of this weight and size in my suitcase. Nov 15, Natalyn Houk rated it it was amazing. This updated version is packed with lots of bonus materials to expand your knitting to a new level. While this book does have some patterns, the biggest draw for me was the information on styles and techniques.
I still have so much to learn and my next big project is a beautiful sweater for my husband, so the extra tips and tricks were greatly appreciated.
In the end, I gave this book a solid 5 stars! Dec 12, Lynn DiFerdinando rated it really liked it Shelves: coffee-table , nonfiction , pp-library , want-to-buy. I love the drawn techniques; they make so much more sense to me than descriptions or even watching YouTube videos. The reference notes at the bottom tell you where explanations for things mentioned on that page are elsewhere in the book.
I got this from the library randomly but now I kind of want to buy it. Dec 18, Rachael rated it really liked it. Feb 24, Katharine rated it really liked it. So much more information than the ancient version I have on the shelf. Things have changed in knitting over the years. The version using different wording that isn't used today even though the stitches are often the same.
I also found the addition of some of the newer techniques circular, magic loop a great resource. This might have to replace my old copy! Its just a better book. Jun 19, Conny rated it it was amazing Shelves: crafts. I learned to Knit in school a long time ago, and though some things stayed with me a lot has not and I needed a reference book that could explain some stitches, problems etc. It is very comprehensive and covers a lot, with great pictures that help you along.
I have not used it as much as I wanted but I am glad I have it in case I need some inspiration and try something new. Jul 28, Emily rated it really liked it Shelves: books-i-read , nonfiction , library-books. I have not read every single word in this book, but I still think it's a great resource for those who like making their own knitting patterns or knitting freestyle It also has some great knitting info and history in it I have not read every single word in this book, but I still think it's a great resource for those who like making their own knitting patterns or knitting freestyle It also has some great knitting info and history in it May 16, Christine rated it liked it Shelves: knitting.
Would be a very good technique reference. I especially liked the sections on seaming and sweater constructions. I wish it had schematics and ease suggestions, but that's because I'm cheap and don't want to buy the ASTM charts.
Jun 04, S rated it it was amazing. With updated, revised, and new material throughout, more than 70 additional pages, and more than 1, photos and hand-drawn step-by-step illustrations, Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book, Completely Revised and Updated is surprisingly easy to navigate with thorough indexing and footnote cross-referencing. From beginners needing to learn the very basics to seasoned knitters needing a refresher on a complex technique, this is a guide that every knitter will cherish for years and years to come.
How-to Corrections Charts. Note about steel hooks: Steel crochet hooks are generally used with lace-weight yarns and crochet threads. They are sized differently than regular hooks: The higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing. The smallest steel hook is a 14 or. Knitters will find them useful for picking up dropped stitches and working decorative edgings. Steel hooks, which are the smallest, are sized using numbers from 14 to 5 in the United States, with the largest number being the smallest hook.
European hooks are sized in millimeters. Solid-ring markers are slipped over the needle as you stitch; split-ring styles are a bit more versatile as they allow you slip markers into. Take care when using decorative styles, as rough edges, wire joins, or beads may snag delicate yarns. If you have no markers handy you can use a simple loop of yarn in a contrasting color.
Some styles resemble oversized safety pins; others are similar to a circular needle and have a cap on one end into which you insert the needle tip to create a closed circle.
Longer circular-style holders are best for large numbers of stitches. Styles and operating methods vary, but in most cases you click a lever or turn a dial to keep count as you complete each row or round. Some counters are designed to slip over the needle itself. Some resemble tiny cribbage boards with moveable pegs to keep track of shaping and stitch patterns at once, others include a push button to click each number forward, still others resemble stopwatches and can track multiple counters simultaneously.
For the more tech minded, there are also myriad apps that will keep careful count for you. The needle eye should be large enough to easily accommodate the yarn. Straight pins are used to hold pieces together as you sew. Those designed for knitting are longer than traditional sewing pins, with blunted points and colorful plastic heads to keep them from getting lost in stitches.
Newer to the market are bamboo marking pins, which hold heavier pieces together during seaming without danger of splitting or snagging yarns. T-pins, named for their T-shaped head, are good for holding heavier knits; you can also purchase specially designed finishing clips for the same purpose.
Blocking pins are long, flexible T-pins specifically designed to hold project pieces in place on a blocking or ironing board as you let them dry or steam them into shape. Coil-less safety pins are another helpful tool. Use them to hold small numbers of extra stitches or for a dropped stitch discovered too late to hook up. They can also be used to mark the right or wrong side of a piece or as stitch markers to indicate your place in a row.
Forked pins and blocking combs are other options that will pin and hold pieces evenly to blocking surfaces as the pieces dry. Many are marked with a grid pattern and a ruler showing inches and centimeters so you can shape. This cast on is similar to the tubular cast on version A on page 35, but uses a crochet chain to begin. With contrasting yarn, crochet a chain that has half the desired number of stitches, plus 1. Cut the yarn and draw it through the last loop. Slip the purl stitches with yarn in front, as shown.
Repeat row 1 three times more. Change to the needles for your project and continue in knit 1, purl 1 rib to the desired length.
Remove the scrap-yarn chain. Holding the yarn in the left hand as for long-tail or double cast on, with the tail end around the thumb and the end coming from the ball around the index finger, bring the right-hand needle under both thumb strands. Repeat from step 1 until the required number of stitches has been cast on. If the cast on is too tight, it will eventually snap and unravel. After casting on, remember to switch back to the correct needle size. You can also use smaller needles or cast.
To keep it out of the way, bundle up the tail while working on your piece. Continue in this way until the desired number of stitches is on the needle. Work through the same stitch in each I-cord row for a neat cast on.
With scrap yarn, make an I-cord with the number of stitches to cast on for your project. Work a few rows of I-cord on these stitches. With double-pointed needles, knit 1 row in the main yarn for the project and divide the stitches evenly on double-pointed needles. After several rounds have been worked in pattern, the scrap yarn can be removed. First, thread the tail of the main yarn in a yarn needle and weave the tail through the stitches of the first round of the main yarn. To remove the scrap yarn, carefully snip 1 stitch in the last round of the scrap yarn and unpick it with a yarn needle.
Tighten the opening in the first round of the piece by gently pulling the woven-in tail. Place a temporary slip knot on the bottom pink needle.
Wrap the yarn around both needles the number of times that is equal to half the number of stitches to cast on in your round. Pull the bottom pink needle so that the stitches are on the cable. Knit the loops on the top silver needle with the other end of the same circular needle. Turn and slide the stitches to the pink needle, and pull the silver needle so the stitches are on the cable of that needle.
Knit the stitches on the light pink needle with the other end of the pink circular needle. This cast on is worked on two circular needles and creates a tube with a closed lower edge.
It is good for socks, pouches, or projects worked on two circular needles. Working on two different-color needles helps to keep track of the rounds. In some garments, however, placing cables horizontally adds interest to the design.
A hat brim, sleeve cuff, or mitten cuff can feature a cable placed horizontally. Cables can be used as horizontal edgings on sweaters or shawls. To use cables in this way, knit a cable panel as a separate piece. You can cast on using a conventional method, such as the long-tail cast on, or start with a provisional cast on that you will graft to the live stitches at the end of the piece to form a tube. If you are seaming the sides of.
If you are knitting your item in the round, as for a hat or mittens, then use a provisional cast-on so that the grafted seam will not be visible.
It is less conspicuous to cast on in the middle of the cable, rather than at the point where the cable crosses, for a smooth seam or graft. Once the cable is knit, you can pick up stitches on either side and then work vertically. If the cable is to be positioned in the middle of your piece, as for the waistline of a sweater, you will be picking up stitches on both sides of the cable panel. For example, if the cable is on a background of reverse stockinette, a garter-stitch edge on the sides of the cable panel will provide a foundation for the picked-up stitches or a smooth bottom edge.
It is useful to swatch and block your cable panel to determine how many stitches to pick up. You can test this by picking up stitches on your blocked cable swatch. Because the pieces are oriented differently, they will stretch differently. You may find that. Cable with picked up stitches changing needle sizes for either the cable or the work above or below the cable insertion piece will give you a smoother fabric.
Some sweaters that are knit side to side also may feature horizontal cables. Bobbins When you knit with more than one color, whether you prefer the stranded or intarsia method, bobbins will help to keep the yarns from tangling.
On the following row, work the 3 double stitches as single stitches. Purl the first 2 stitches with the new yarn. Work these stitches with the yarn folded double, making sure you have just enough to work 3 stitches. Knit the next 3 stitches with the doubled yarn. Let the short end of the new yarn hang and continue knitting with 1 strand.
Work the doubled stitches as single stitches. Double knitting is a method of knitting in which you create a fabric with two public sides using two balls of yarn knit on one set of needles.
Double-knit fabrics can be knit flat on straight needles or in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles. The technique is excellent for making very warm blankets, hats, or cowls.
When both sides of the work are knit in stockinette, the double thickness of the fabric prevents it from curling. When planning. Double knitting is often used with two different color yarns, and the resulting fabric is reversible. Because there is no right or wrong side in double knitting, the side you are working on is described as the facing side and the side away from you is the opposite side. In each row or round, you alternate knitting stitches from each ball of yarn. Double-knitting charts show only the facing side of the fabric.
For each square, you knit two stitches—one for the facing side and one for the opposite side. Get started by casting on using one of the methods shown. You need to cast on twice as many stitches as you would for a single fabric. To knit circularly, use any standard method for joining in the round. Move both strands to back of work between the needles.
With both strands held to back, insert needle knitwise in next stitch, wrap yarn for facing side to knit stitch. Holding both yarns to front, insert needle purlwise in next stitch, wrap with opposite color and purl. Holding color for facing side to front and color for opposite side to back, insert needle purlwise in next stitch, wrap with facing color and purl. Holding color for facing side to front and color for opposite side to back, insert needle knitwise in next stitch, wrap with opposite color and knit.
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